My family just returned from a 9-day camping trip through central and
north-western Washington. We had two targets here. My daughter has a
thing about Bavarian villages, so we wanted to see Leavenworth. Plus,
I've lived in Oregon practically all of my life, and have never visited
Olympic National Park in NW Washington, which is only a few hours away.
We spent three nights in Leavenworth, and five nights in Port Angeles.
We took our 25-foot trailer. Here is a blow-by-blow.
Tuesday August 16 -- Drove to Leavenworth. The mapping web sites
all suggested going up I-5 to I-90 to US-97, but I-5 can be a bit of a
pain with a trailer, so I decided on on alternate route, up I-84 to US-97.
In retrospect, I'm not sure my decision was sound. It took a lot longer
than I expected, although it's a nice drive.
We stayed at the Pine Village KOA in Leavenworth. I tend to stay at KOAs
because (1) they have enforced cleanliness requirements, (2) they
always have free showers, (3) they always have a pool, and (4) they have
a system-wide reasonable set of rules. I'm stunned at how many RV parks
are openly kid-hostile, and the RV guide books don't tell you that.
KOAs are all safely kid-friendly.
Anyway, the park has some very nice features. The pool is large and open
late. It fronts the Wenatchee River and has great swimming acccess. It
has a meeting area and game room, and the pancake breakfast so common to
KOAs. However, it is oddly laid out, and many of the sites are less than
desireable. We were shuffled into a "slum" site, only about 30' long. A
path to an upper level started directly behind our site, so we had people
running through our site all the time. However, in their defense, I made
the reservation quite late, so I can't be too picky. All in all, I would
cheerfully stay at the Pine Village KOA again.
Wednesday August 17 -- Part of our agenda today was to acquire
tickets to Sound of Music at the Leavenworth Summer Theater. I had tried
to get tickets the week before, but it turns out their summer theater
performances all sell out. Fortunately, a lot of their seats are sold in
subscriptions, and the subscribers can't attend every performance. So, the
day before a performance, they sell these "rush" tickets starting at 11 AM
at their box office. Fortunately for the kids, the box office is in the
Icicle Fun Center, which is a mini-amusement park with a fabulous mini-golf
course, an arcade, a small gauge train, some kiddie rides, and a bumper
boat setup. They had 23 rush tickets, and we were second in line, so we
were able to get tickets. The mini-golf course was a lot of fun.
After the fun center, we headed into the Bavarian village. Don't think that
this is a genuine outgrowth of German immigrants trying to recreate their
homeland. No, Leavenworth's Bavarian village is strictly a tourist and
marketing outgrowth from poor financial times in the 1960s. There is some
great food and some ecelectic shops, but I wouldn't go back just for the
village. We did have a great lunch of an assortment of various German-style
sausages and wursts.
Thursday August 18 -- We had two items on our agenda today: inner
tubing and Sound of Music. There are several companies that do rafting
and inner tubing trips down the Wenatchee River. We went through "Tube
Leavenworth". It was great fun, and may have been the highlight of the
whole trip. They bus you upriver and drop you into the river with
fabric-covered inner tubes. We were out for more than 3 hours, floating,
swimming, and tubing. There are a few little rough sections, just enough
to get you wet.
We even took along a lunch, and just paddled over to the bank and sat on
a log while we ate. While we were stopped, my kids pointed out a big log
floating downstream. As I looked at it, I said "that's not a long, it's
a black bear!" Sure enough, it swam across and crawled onto the opposite
shore not 40 yards from us. Very exciting.
After a pseudo-German dinner in town, we headed up to the outdoor theater
for Sound of Music. It was an enjoyable performance, with lots of
enthusiasm and local flavor.
Overall, I enjoyed the Leavenworth area. I would like to return to explore
the river and mountain areas some more. There's a lot to see in this
area.
Friday August 19 -- Drove to Port Angeles. This is only a 190
mile drive, but it has some interesting aspects. US 2 is a very pretty
mountain drive. The high point of the day was the 30 minute trip on the
Edmonds-Kingston ferry across the Hood Canal. However, be warned that it
is expensive to take a long vehicle on the Washington ferries: 20' van
plus 25' trailer plus 4 passengers totalled about $85. Still, it cuts
about 3 hours off of the paved alternative.
In Port Angeles, we stayed at the Port Angeles/Sequim KOA. The KOA sits
halfway in between Port Angeles and Sequim (which is pronounced "skwim").
This KOA has a smaller pool. Although it has many grassy sites with
shade trees, we got a crappy "new" site, all gravel, with no vegetation
at all. Again, we reserved late, but I was very disappointed in this
park. In addition, we had credit card trouble here. My credit union
claims that KOA's merchant provider doesn't record addresses when they
send a card in for validation, so they routinely decline their charges.
Personally, I think my credit union is feeding me a line of bull here.
I've never heard an excuse like that before. The Leavenworth KOA took
Amex, but Port Angeles was Visa/MC only. It was awkward and inconvenient.
The weather could not have been nicer. The Pacific coast of Washington
gets vast amounts of rain, but the Olympic mountains on the peninsula
provide a large rain shadow over the inland areas, giving Port Angeles
the dry weather of a city much farther south. The whole week had comfortable
highs in the mid-80s, although the mornings were foggy and somewhat cool.
Saturday August 20 -- Explored part of the Olympic National Park.
Spent some time at the visitor's center, and then headed up to Hurricane
Ridge. This is a 3.2-mile round-trip hike with a 700' rise in altitude
up to a peak with a 360 degree view of the Olympic mountains, the local
cities, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the San Juan Islands, and Victoria, BC.
Sunday August 21 -- Two things make a visit to the Olympic National Park
a challenge: (1) it is big, and (2) it is almost all wilderness. There
are no roads across the park. To get anywhere, you have to go
around. Today,
we decided to drive to the Hoh Rain Forest on the western side of the park.
It's about 2.5 hours each way. The rain forest gets vast amounts of
precipitation, and results in huge trees and ferns, and mosses that hang
several feet off of the branches.
After the rain forest, we headed to Rialto Beach near the city of La Push
on the Pacific coast.
The Pacific coast of Washington is quite different from the Oregon coast
we are used to. The central Washington coast is quite rugged and rocky,
with many rock stack islands offshore.
Monday August 22 -- Our agenda today was Victoria, British Columbia,
on Vancouver Island, across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, in Canada. We
decided to take the Victoria Express, a 144-passenger ferry that makes the
crossing in about an hour. We took the 8:10 AM ferry over and the 6:00 PM
ferry back. It was a nice day wandering about town, although things were
very expensive. There was a time when US$1 bought as much as C$1.40, but
the exchange rate now is closer to C$1.15. We got a lot of souvenirs,
but the kids weren't too much interested in the museums.
The trip back to Port Angeles was quite a kick. It was a change of tide,
and the wind had whipped things up enough that the seas were quite rough.
I was very surprised by this, seeing as how the Strait is fairly well
protected.
Tuesday August 23 -- Our last day. I had originally hoped to head
out to Neah Bay, which is the very northwestern tip of the continental
United States, and visit the Makah Indian Tribal Cultural Center, but I
decided not to subject the family to another six-hour car day. We toured
the old Dungeness area and the city of Sequim. The city is a friendly
small town, with a number of cute shops in the downtown. The Sequim area
was once a general agricultural area, with lots of irrigated farmland,
but they can't compete with the corporate farms today. Many of the farms
have decided to specialize in growing lavender, which is something my
allergy-prone nose did not allow me to enjoy. We went to the Sequim
"marina", which is really just shorthand for "yacht club".
Wednesday August 24 -- Drive home. We had to choose between taking
US-101 down the coast down to Long Beach and inland to Portland, and
taking US-101 to Olympia and down I-5. We finally opted for I-5, which
cut about two hours out of the day. It was an uneventful drive. There are
a lot of resort towns on the south end of Hood Canal that would be fun
to explore.
It was interesting that gas was more expensive in Washington than in Oregon.
I hadn't expected that.